Making Way to Vero Beach

Weather: We awoke to another beautiful day! Although dark at 0730, it was clear and cool (59o). Dew covered everything. It looked as though it had rained during the night, but such was not the case. The wind was calm. The sun rose brilliantly in the east and there were few clouds. The temp reached 77o and visibility was fabulous. The wind eventually filled in from the west, clocked to the NW then N, and built to about 15 knots. The ICW was mostly flat except for the light chop that developed in the 15 knot wind. At about 1500 hours, it began to cloud over an just after we attached to mooring #1, we had a rain shower. The shower didn’t last long, but the clouds remained.

Comment: At 0630, its dark, but we are up and attending to boat chores (check engine oil levels, wipe dew from the dodger, etc.)

0725 “Sans Souci” is hauling anchor, Thom Cat has left the anchorage. Its engines on and anchor up.

0800 We’re at our first bridge for the day (PGA Bascule Bridge), “Sans Souci” is tagging along; we’ll be going through the bridges together.

NOTE: We are making good time despite the bridges. As we passed Jupiter Inlet, we noticed a woman walking along the mud flats. She appeared to be calling a dog, but there was none in sight. Around the bend, we saw the dog. He was swimming away from the woman who appeared unfazed by this fact. The dog reached a san bar that runs parallel to the ICW and for at least the next quarter mile, he ran, jumped, spun around in circles and had a good old time. Eventually, the dog turned and started running toward the woman who by this time, was over a quarter mile away!

By 1100 hours, we are navigating Hobe Sound, a narrow but picturesque body of water. The east side is lined with gorgeous homes and the west side appears to be natural. One can see only hints that US 1 is just beyond the vegetation.

At 1227 hours, we have arrived at the “Crossroads.” This is the junction of the St. Lucie River and St. Lucie Inlet. A turn west would take us to the Okeechobee Waterway and ultimately the west coast of Florida. A turn to the east leads to the Big Pond. The ICW runs north and south. We continued our northbound journey.

Once into some open water, the jib is rolled out and we are having a delightful experience motor sailing.

By 1330 hours, we have arrived at the turning mark for Nettles Island... but it’s early and we are making 8.5 mph. We apologize to the Emmens, but we just can’t stop! Perhaps we can hook up during the summer?

Along the way, we heard Dave from “Canvasback Too” over the VHF. We tried relentlessly to hail him to no avail. He was one of the “original” flock and we haven’t seen him since Oriental!

Ron (Sans Souci) called to say he was peeling off to get fuel and stop for the night in Fort Pierce. We bid him adieu. We enjoyed having him as a traveling companion for two days and as a guest for dinner. Perhaps we’ll see him along the waterway.

NOTE: While motor sailing, we hit speeds of 9.5 mph. It was a great day!

At 1600 hours, the wind picked up to about 15 knots and there are white caps on the Indian River. We’re still motor sailing at speeds in excess of 8.5 mph.

At 1725 hours, engines are off @ the Vero Beach Fuel Dock. We’ve been assigned to Mooring Ball #1. Surprisingly, the harbor is full and boats are rafted, but not us, yet.

After settling in, Anna Maria phoned Fran and Larry (Kallista) and Pat and Ray (Reflection) to see how everyone is doing. Fran and Larry will stop by in a day or two. It’ll be great to see them. Pat and Ray, Vanessa and Andres (Tally Ho) and Joe and Sigi (Sigi 7) are leaving Marathon in a day or two. They’ll all meet in Ft. Lauderdale and jump off the the Abacos with the first weather window. I am envious!

Tonight’s experimental meal is Betty Crocker’s Cheesey Beef Tacos. We don’t have taco shells, but the package has everything that is needed is in the box. Rice was included not taco shells. This meal was fair. We’re thinking once every three weeks or so.

NOTE: We called 37 bridge captains in the last three days (nine on March 12, a whopping twenty-one on the thirteenth, and seven on the fourteenth).

Heading North

Weather: Beautiful! Although, we can already tell that we are getting up into the higher latitudes. The temperature was cool. We started the morning out at 59o and the high reached 77o. Winds were generally less than 10 knots out of the north northeast. The day was mostly sunny. The clouds that we saw were over the ocean and the mainland and didn’t cast any shadows on us for most of the day.

Comment: 0700 We're up... and apprehensive about pulling away from the dock. The wind is on our beam and is blowing around 10 knots. The current is running out (on our bows). We released the spring and stern lines then Anna Marie released the bow line and pulled it onboard. We pushed off the dock, and with the starboard engine in reverse and the port engine in forward, to presented the bows to the current. Gently as you please the bows swung out and pointed downstream.

At 0800 we stopped for gas at Bahia Mar Yachting Center (Ft’ Lauderdale). Remember that line in the old Beverly Hillbillies TV show, “Oil that is, black gold, Texas Tea?” I don’t know about Texas Tea, but at $5.55 per gallon, “GOLD” is an apt descriptor.

As we traveled through Fort Lauderdale, we once again marveled at the huge boats and houses, all exquisitely landscaped and maintained. It is incredible.

Along the way, we passed a sailboat that appeared to be drifting in the waterway. We didn’t see an anchor line and, although it was within about 15 feet of a dock, it didn’t appear to be tied to the dock. Its name was “Sans Souci.”About one half hour after passing this vessel, we approached a bridge and hailed the bridge captain regarding the next opening. Just before the bridge was about to open, “Sans Souci” hailed the bridge captain and to request passage as well. (NOTE: We later discovered that the captain had sailed non-stop for 50 hours from the islands. While waiting for the bridge, he just "crashed" for an hour or so. I'm not sure why he thought it OK to just drift in the narrow ICW channel while he slept.)

For two more bridges, “Sans Souci’s” captain would hail the bridge after us. After passing the third bridge, I hailed said captain, introduced myself and Anna Marie and observed that we would be traveling together for much of the day (we had 21 bridges to contend with). The captain offered that he was just returning from the Turks and Caicos and hadn’t slept for two days. If we didn’t mind, he would follow along. Fine with us!

As we motored up the waterway, we caught up with another boat that started the day with us. A little trawler named “L’Escargot.” He was able to shot ahead because his air draft didn’t require all of the bridges to be opened. We eventually caught up with him when he had to wait for the bridges that he couldn’t clear. We traveled the rest of the day with him as well.

Our friends Pat and Ray might get a kick out of knowing that this little trawler is from Put-in-Bay, Ohio, home of Ray Fogg. If you’ve been following along, you might remember the story about the “Ray Fogg” show at the Dockside. Ray too hailed from Put-in-Bay, Oh.

At around 1700, “Sans Souci” asked what our plans for the evening were. We offered that we planned to anchor in the North Palm Waterway. He wondered if we’d mind if he’d anchor in the same anchorage. “Fine with us,” we replied.

After setting the anchor, Anna Marie invited the captain of “Sans Souci” for dinner. He graciously accepted offering that he was single-handing and would enjoy the company. He even offered to bring a chicken! We settled on pasta with meat sauce, one of the meals that will be a hit when we travel to the islands.

We had a fresh salad, whole wheat pasta with meat sauce and pudding for desert. Our guest, Ron, brought a bottle of wine. We had a pleasant conversation. He told us about his marriages and more importantly about the Exumas and Turks and Caicos and his adventures. He offered that single handing is a bit tough and he’d like to have some company. His wife has agreed to sail for six months but wants to spend six months at home.

Ron asked if we’d mind if he tagged along again tomorrow. Of course we didn’t and told him so. We’re hoping for Vero Beach but may stop at Nettles Island. He may stop at Ft. Pierce or continue to Vero too.

Post Script: We hailed “Thom Cat,” a PDQ motor vessel as he passed. We saw him tied to a mooring ball in Marathon but never had the opportunity to say hello. I thought it’d be appropriate to do so now and ask how he enjoyed his stay in Marathon. We talked on the radio for a bit. He offered that he too was heading to Vero Beach. His objective is to get there tomorrow as he doesn’t like to be on the waterway on the weekends. We agree whole heartedly! The waterway can be dicey when all of the gnats are out!

Los Olas and Riverwalk

Weather: Partly cloudy although we did enjoy periods of sun; temp range 70 – 85; wind was < 10 knots out of the west; it picked up a bit more in the afternoon when we were at the dock.
Comment: Early wake up call today! After washing the cobwebs from our eyes, we had breakfast. While Anna Marie tended to things inside the boat, I checked the engine oil levels. Both were A-OK.

0745 It's Anchor Up! We’re underway. We had a great view of Miami last night. It was as if the city was at our back door. This morning, the sun is just peeking over the horizon and the city is aglow with the first rays of light. It is a magnificent scene. As we motored past the city, we thought about the lives being lead in the high rise apartments and along the streets. We judge ourselves to be fortunate to be doing what we are doing.

We needed eight bridges to open for us today. All the bridge captains were more than courteous, they were downright generous. We were late for several be a minute or two, but all were raised. We weren’t made to wait ½ hour for the next opening.


There was significant container ship activity in Port Everglades. Containers were being loaded on some ships and off loaded on others. Only one cruise ship was in dock (there weren’t any in Miami). We watched as a tug helped a container ship parallel park between two other ships. There wasn’t much room for error.

As we made our way to Ft. Lauderdale, we observed more and even bigger mega-yachts than we did on our trip south. Many were of foreign registries flying flags of various Caribbean island countries.

At 1230 we turned off the ICW into the New River in Fort Lauderdale. We are heading up river to the municipal marina which is only a short walk to the Riverwalk.

At 1300 hours, we tied up at to the bulkhead of the marina. Actually, it isn’t a marina but about one thousand feet of bulkhead. There are no slips. We docked nicely as you please although the traffic, wind and current had us holding our collective breaths. As we navigated the relatively narrow New River, we were followed closely by a one hundred foot plus mega-yacht. We’d have preferred that he was first, but such was not the case and there wasn’t any passing room.



The marina office which is a block away from us. After attending to registration, we walked across the Andrews Avenue Bascule Bridge to the Riverwalk. We chose to have lunch at Briny’s Riverside Irish Pub. The Bangers and Mash were great! Anna Marie enjoyed a pulled Pork sandwich.

We walked the entire Riverwalk (about ten blocks) and then back to the boat where we watched an amazing amount of boat traffic in this little river in the heart of downtown Ft. Lauderdale. Boats of all sizes and shapes, from 100’ and greater mega-yachts to little dinghies went by. The water taxis run frequently and don’t mind throwing a wake; tour boats and river cruise boats run frequently. They’re on a schedule after all. We even watched as a diesel fuel boat headed up river, presumably to fuel one or more of the mega-yachts that live up there.

Beyond our dock, there are a series of small bascule bridges that mostly open on request, except for rush hour. The mega-yachts must negotiate all of them. It is quite a sight to see them lined up waiting for an opening. The river doesn’t look wide enough for inbound and outbound mega-yachts to pass each other, but looks are deceiving because it happened on more than one occasion!

The trip to Publix, for a loaf of bread, was about a four block round trip jaunt and not through a good section of town. Instead of walking this area in the twilight, the next time we'll do it earlier in the day when there is lots of light.

Back on the boat, we chilled for the rest of the evening.

P.S. We averaged 5.75 mph today – not too shabby considering that we had to negotiate eight bascule bridges!

Anchor Down: Hurricane Harbor, Key Biscayne

Weather: Most of the day was overcast, except that there were a few rays of sun on occasion. There were more clouds today than we have had all winter. The temperature range 74 – 78 degrees. The wind was out of the east northeast and clocked to the east and at the time we anchored was east southeast. The maximum apparent wind was 15.5 knots. True wind speed averaged about 12 knots, but dropped off substantially by 1800 hours. We had light showers several times today. We motored in light chop until the northern reaches of Biscayne Bay when the water became flat calm.

Comment: We were up at 0715, had breakfast and were underway at 0735. Our speed (6.25 mph) was much improved as compared to yesterday (5.0 mph) and allowed us a longer than usual run. We motor sailed for four and one-half hours and reached speeds of 8.3 mph with just the jib unfurled.

Yesterday was sort of a melancholy day for the captain, but today he is back in good spirits and looking forward to more adventures. Neither of us can wait to see our kids and grandkids in less than two weeks! Yipee!! We can’t wait. We’re keeping a tight rein on the budget so we can splurge with them (and Mickey Mouse)!

The trip from Lignumvitae to Key Biscayne was delightful despite the overcast sky. We saw several boats heading south and wondered if any were headed to Boot Key Harbor. As we motored past Tarpon Basin, our last anchorage before arriving at Boot Key Harbor back in January, we noticed another PDQ at anchor. She was too far away to read her name.

The autopilot did a fair amount of work today, giving the captain a break for hours at a time.

On the way to No Name Harbor, our cohsen destination, we passed Stiltsville and snapped this photo. I call it "Stiltsville in Blue." We planned to anchor in No Name Harbor… even had the anchor down. But it was crowded and the anchor didn’t set properly so it was hauled back on deck and we motored to an anchorage about a mile away and just outside of Hurricane Harbor. While in No Name Harbor, someone on a catamaran welcomed us back to the harbor. He soon realized that we are a different PDQ named SUNSHINE. I believe the Phil McGovern on his PDQ "Sunshine" was in the neighborhood. He may have even been the boat anchored in Tarpon Basin that we passed this morning.

We took this photo of Miami from our cockpit.

We Have Left the Harbor!

Weather: We had a mixed bag of weather today. The overnight temperature was in the low 70’s and it reached the high 70’s by the late afternoon. Although wind and showers were in the forecast, we stuck to our planned departure. Since we have been In the Keys, 15+ knots of wind has been a constant. Scattered showers have been widely scattered; usually somewhere other than Marathon.

The day started with an overcast sky. Sun made an appearance before noon when it became partly sunny. By mid afternoon, we enjoyed mostly sunny skies.

The wind was out of the east northeast, generally blowing between 12 and 15 knots. At times there was considerable chop on the waterway and, although there were periods with no whitecaps, generally speaking, they were the order of the day.

Comment: The captain was not looking forward to departing Marathon. It still seems early to leave and, were we doing the Bahamas, we’d be looking forward to many more new experiences. The day was made even more melancholy when we met our south bound tracks, made on January 9, 2008, and started retracing our southerly course. We’ll be covering no new ground for the rest of this trip!

The captain was up before 0700, but let the Admiral sleep. She awoke at 0730. We had our last bowl of cereal in Boot Key Harbor, and at 0805, fired up both engines. After letting them warm up for a few minutes we slipped our lines from mooring ball L-10 at 0815. We passed through the Boot Key Harbor Bascule Bridge at 0830 and by 0840, we were outside the harbor. At exactly 0913, we passed under the Seven Mile Bridge and turned to the northeast to begin our trip home.

The motors ran well all day and the boat took the moderate chop in the Gulf in stride. At 1600 hours, we affixed our lines to a mooring ball at Lignumvitae Key and settled in for the night. Now that it’s daylight savings time, we have several more hours of sunlight. We used the time for reading, showering and watching a nifty sunset.

We have provisioned the boat with six weeks worth of food, some fresh and some canned. Were we doing the Bahamas, we’d be eating three meals aboard every day, with only occasional meals out. Since provisioning is so expensive in the Bahamas, most cruisers load up here in the States before crossing. We are not crossing (this year), but we are attempting to gain experience with what kinds of foods to take when we do go.

Tonight’s meal was La Choy Sweet and Sour Chicken with Chow Mein Noodles. It passed muster, even though neither of us are huge fans of Chinese. It is quick and easy to prepare, low in calories and tasty. We expect that these kinds of canned Chinese meals can be enjoyed once a week in the Bahamas.

Final Departure Preparations

Weather: The weather station said it reached 53 degrees in Key West. On board, the temp stayed at 68 degrees all night. At 0800, the temp dropped to 67 degrees and no lower. Still, good evidence that this cold front actually brought cooler temperatures in addition o plenty of wind! The morning dawned bright and sunny with nary a cloud in the sky. According to the weather report, clouds are due to show up some time or another. Since the wind is out of the north, we are expecting a good day for the solar collector.

As luck would have it, by early afternoon, it clouded over so the solar panel wasn’t able to collect much energy today.

Comment: Our planned departure isn’t happening today. Even though the wind moderated in the early morning hours, we decided to postpone our departure until tomorrow. By this afternoon, the wind dropped to around 12 knots. It was once again relatively calm in the harbor.

After attending to departure preparations, we hoped into the dinghy for a trip to the water faucet and the Chevron gas station where we filled our water and gas jugs respectively. While returning Joe’s (Sigi 7) hat left on board sunshine a couple of days ago, we bid final farewells to Pat and Ray aboard “Reflection.” We hope they’ll be able to stop by the house on their car trip to Maine.

Back onboard SUNSHINE, we mounted the dinghy motor to the stern rail, hoisted the dinghy on the davits and tied it down tight. Everything is shipshape for an early morning departure.

Openning Day!

Weather: Isolated thunderstorms moved through last night signaling that a cold front would soon arrive. We had rain on and off overnight, but the temperature remained at 79 degrees. We awoke to a shower, the last one of the day as it turned out, and 25 knot winds (gusting to 30) out of the northeast. It most probably will blow for the next couple of days. We wait for the winds to subside a bit before we leave the harbor. The temp dropped through the low 70’s and into the 60’s during the day and ended in the high 50’s by 2200 hours. After the rain showers, we had periods of bright sun although there were clouds passing by most of the day.

Comment: Although this was to be our last full day in the harbor, we will wait for the cold front to move through and for the wind to subside. The day started out as usual (cereal for breakfast, listen to the cruisers’ net do a couple of boat chores and have lunch aboard).

Following lunch, we donned our foul weather gear, piled into the dinghy and set off for the marina. The ride wasn’t as wet as I had anticipated. We headed directly into the wind (due north) at a snails pace. Our objective was to get into the lee of the land in the shortest possible distance. Once we got to calmer water, we turned to starboard and picked our way through the shoals. Some thoughtful mariner has placed additional PVC pipe markers and affixed red triangles and green squares to clearly mark the safe way through the shoals. Very helpful!

Our first objective was the opening ceremony of the Marathon Little League Season. It seems that there are four minor and major league teams (the Phillies, Yankees, Red Sox, Marlins, and Braves were represented).

After the ceremony, we intended walk across the park to the amphitheater to see the Army Band. Alas, the weather caused the performance to be moved indoors to the high school. Not being exactly sure about the location of the H. S., we opted to stay at the ball park to watch the Yankees and the Red Sox do battle. It was a very entertaining game which the Yankees won; coming from 2 runs down, to win by a score of 6 to 5. It was great fun. While watching the game, we enjoyed a great frank and some peanuts! Just like the big show!!!

After the game, we hoofed it to the theater to see “Fool’s Gold.” It was a nice romantic comedy about treasure hunting - very appropriate subject matter for the Keys. Part of the story was to have taken place in Key West. Judging from the background mountains, it is safe to say that the film wasn’t shot in Key West.

The dinghy ride back to the boat was a “down wind” run and we made it back without getting wet.