Hard Work? (Day 039)

Fort Frederica, St Simon Island, GA MM 665.7
Distance Traveled: 44.1 Hours Underway: 7.0 Average Speed: 6.3

Weather: Mostly cloudy, although at times, we saw the sun; temp range 50 to 77 (in the bubble); winds were 10 knots or less out of the north; a cold front has moved in for weekend; the forecast is for rain tomorrow and Monday

Comment: Everyone seemed to enjoy the anchorage (Cattle Pen Creek) which seems more protected from wind and current than Walberg Creek. We had a great night’s sleep and were ready to go at 0730. We fired up and cast Canvasback Too off and hauled the anchor. We followed Canvasback Too and Tally Ho out of the anchorage. Reflection slept in, but caught up with us in an hour or so.

We had a fine day on the water. we enjoyed a push from the current for most of the day. The guys with the five foot draft were especially pleased to pass the notoriously shallow Little Mud Creek at high tide. The depth gauge never showed any alarmingly low readings. With a north wind, we were able to unfurl the jib and motor-sail most of the way to fort Federica.

Reflection invited everyone aboard for gooey brownies, but we had to pass. We still can’t get the Nissan motor started. I’m sure it’s a fuel starvation issue. I suspect the carburetor is gummed up. We’ll take it ashore tomorrow (we have reservations at Jekyll Island Marina). It will be easier to work on it on land.


Sunset from Fort Frederica, on the Frederica River, St. Simons Island, GA



Once at the anchorage, we set the anchor, deployed the kellet and tied Canvasback Too along side. We’ll enjoy Dave’s company again. I think he’s cooking omelets and hash tonight but not before we enjoy a little nap! Ya gotta believe that cruising is hard work!

Captain Dave's Double Stuffed Omlete - Gooood!

Arial view of the Fort Frederica Anchorage, St. Simons Island, GA



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Back in the Saddle Again! (Day 038)

Sunrise from Bull Creek, SC



Cattle Pen Creek, St. Catherine Island, GA MM 625.5
Distance Traveled: 61.2 Hours Underway: 9.1 Average Speed: 6.7mph

Weather: Sunny, north wind @ 10 to 15 knots; wake up temp 46 degrees, high temp in the bubble was 73 degrees



Container ship inbound on the Savannah River

Comment: Departed Bull Creek in civil twilight with steaming lights aglow. Motored down the waterway, and after passing the Savannah River, Causton Bluffs Bascule Bridge, Thunderbolt, Isle of Hope and the Skidaway Narrows bascule Bridge, we unfurled the jib and immediately gained 1 mph. The jib continued to help the motors and the current push us down the waterway. The current was in our favor most of the day. I think we only had a foul current for an hour or so. While motor-sailing we averaged near 8 mph. For a about an hour, we sustained speeds over 10 (max = 10.9) mph. Our average speed for the day was 6.7 mph. Very pleasing indeed.

We set the anchor in the Cattle Pen Creek. Canvasback Too rafted with us and joined us for a salad and Beef Stroganoff dinner. After dinner, it was quiet time, early sack time for an early (but more civilized) 0730 departure tomorrow morning.

Until today, we have become spoiled by a string of shorter than normal days. Doing 9+ hour days has become unusual, but today we're back in the saddle again (check the video)!






Arial view of the Cattle Pen Creek Anchorage


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Who the F*#@ Is Alice? (Day 037)

Canvasback Too preparing to raft with SUNSHINE

Bull Creek Anchorage, West of Daufuskie Island, SC MM 565.5
Distance Traveled: 11.8 Hours Underway: 2.2 Average Speed: 5.4

Weather: Still cool, but sunny; 15 to 20 knots of wind out of the east; 1’ chop in Calibogue Sound; Temp range 50 to 70 degrees (in the bubble)

M/V Reflection sails into the Bull Creek Anchorage

Comment: Heard Tally Ho and Reflection on the radio as we made a late (1115 hours) departure from the marina. Once out on the river, we were able to make radio contact. During several radio discussions with the newly formed flock, our destination changed several times when suddenly and quite unexpectedly, our day got much shorter as we all agreed to head into Bull Creek, only 10 miles from the Skull Creek Marina. We were all eager to see each other. Tally Ho offered to host our reunion at 1630 hours. After some begging, the gathering was pushed up to 1530.

Pat and Ray stopped by SUNSHINE before heading to Tally Ho. Pat brought her quilt book along. It was spectacular. The book documents their 2007 – 2008 cruise in quilt squares. Some of the squares were contributed be their family, friends and people they met along the way, some of whom now number among Pat and Ray’s growing circle of friends. I was blown away by the book. Not only is Pat creative, she is a talented quilter. The quilt book is a significant piece of art that also serves as to document their lives and their friendships. Beautiful!

Our dinghy engine refused to start, we presume a gummed up carburetor, so Ray came by to tow us to Tally Ho. We had a great gam and shared experiences, stories and laughs. We joined Vanessa and Andrew in a vocal tribute to Alice. “Who the F*@% is Alice,” you may ask. You can Google it or watch the video below.






Arial view of the Bull Creek Anchorage



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A Cold Day; A Short Day; A Warm Day! (Day 036)

Port Royal Waterfront

Skull Creek Marina, Hilton Head, SC MM 554.8
Distance Travelled: 15.5 Hours Underway: 3.0 Average Speed: 5.2

Weather: Cold! Again!! Clear and sunny; temp range 45 to low 60s (but low 70s in the bubble); Wind out of the west at 12 to 15 knots.

Comment: It’s cold again! Knowing that it would be, the crew of Canvasback Too and SUNSHINE agreed on a later than normal start, hoping that things would warm up a bit. Penguin had the same idea and slipped her lines a few minutes before our 0915 departure.

We motored into the current, outbound from Port Royal. The wind picked up a bit as we approached Port Royal Sound, but settled in nicely. It was a relatively smooth ride across the sound in one foot chop. When we tucked into the creek behind Hilton Head and were in flat water.

On the way, Captain Dave reached us on the VHF. He offered that if we pulled in for an overnight stay at Skull Creek, his buddy, Buddy, would cook us all a steak dinner. What an offer! It was time for the great debate:

o The Cons:
o Skull Creek is barely one-half of the distance we had planned to cover.
o We planned to anchor tonight (budget considerations) and stay at the Thunderbolt Marina tomorrow.
o If we dock today, we'll most likely skip Thunderbolt Marina and their complimentary Krispy Kreeme doughnuts.
o I planned to attend to some business in Savannah.

o The Pros:
o It’s cold! Although we’re comfortable in the bubble, Capt. Dave has to be freezing.
If we stop at a marina, we'll have power for the electric heaters.
o We can anchor tomorrow night, thus preserving our budget considerations.
o I could attend to the necessary business on Hilton Head.
o We get to meet Buddy.

o The Winner:
o For budgeting purposes, the choice to stay at Skull Creek or Thunderbolt is a toss up.
o At its most basic element, the debate was: “steak dinner v. krispy kreemes,” and meeting Buddy! We can always buy KK’s, and a steak dinner for that matter. Let's go meet Buddy!

We pulled into the Skull Creek Marina at around 12:00 noon, making it a short three hour day! We met Buddy who sails a Cape Dory Motorsailor. He readiated a warmth that made the day seem less cold.

Buddy very generously drove me where I needed to go. He also prepared that steak dinner I mentioned. It was spectacular! We can only say thak you Buddy! It was great to meet you and we really hope to see you on the water! With a bit of luck, Buddy might sail his boat to Fort Pierce for the winter. He needs to attend to some business before he gets underway. We wish him well.

As we were approaching Skull Creek Marina and with docking preparation underway, we were hailed over the VHF radio by the crew of Kokomo – a PDQ 36. They have been aboard SUNSHINE when she was known as Sea Paws and know previous owners Chester and Jeanie. We have been anxious to meet these folks and had hoped to meet them and Chester and Jeanie for a raft up last summer. Sadly, cruising and work schedules foiled the plans.

Hilton Head Country Club

Kokomo (Bonnie and Roger) put the anchor down just off the marina and came over to say hello. We talked for a few minutes, but they were off to see Sue, the marina manager. She’s a long time friend and they’re going shopping together.

Kokomo is staying here for a couple of days. We expect to be off tomorrow, but we’re looking forward to meeting them down the road on the waterway as we continue south in search of warmer weather.

Speaking of the VHF radio, we also heard our friend Vanessa (S/V Tally Ho) on the radio. Her communication was to another vessel that was in the process of passing S/V Tally Ho. We tried to contact her but we were out of range, so Anna marie called on the cell phone. Vanessa reported that they were going to anchor in Factory Creek (Beaufort, SC) for the evening. They're only one day behind us! They plan to anchor in Bull Creek tomorrow night and so do we! It looks like another reunion is in the making!

Arial view of Skull Creek Marina



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Yikes! It's COLD! (Day 035)

Lay Day - Port Royal Marina, Beaufort, SC MM 539.6

Weather: Cold and blustery! Temp range 40 degrees to mid 50s; wind out of the northwest 20 to 25 knots; sunny

Comment: The crews of S/V SUNSHINE, S/V Canvasback Too and M/V Penguin woke to a cold (very cold) blustery morning. It didn’t take long to decide that we would lay over today. After coffee at the marina, we borrowed the loaner truck for a trip to WalMart. Each crew made their respective purchases before piling back into the truck for the short hop back to the marina. We borrowed the truck later in the afternoon for a trip to West Marine. The crew of S/V SUNSHINE couldn’t find anything to buy! What is wrong with the world? Forty degrees in the south and Capt. Bill doesn’t make a purchase at West Marine! Crazy!

Before Capt. Dave came over for dinner, we accomplished a few boat chores (topped off the gas tank did a load of wash). We were also able to get in a short walk around the community that surrounds the marina. Very nice!

The forecast suggests that tonight will be colder than last night. We’ll be moving on tomorrow, but will make it a later than normal (0900) start, to allow for some solar gain. The temp range is supposed to be a low of 38 degrees and a high of 65 degrees. We’re expecting a cold departure!

Check yesterday's blog for an arial view of our location at the Port Royal Landing Marina.

Will the Bridge Swing? (Day 034)

Tom Point Creek Anchorage to Port Royal Marina, Beaufort, SC MM 539.6
Distance Traveled: 44.0 Hours Underway: 8.8 Average Speed: 5.0
The "Enticer" - A Classic

Weather: Cool outside but reached 79 degrees in the bubble. The actual temperature ranged from the low 50d to the low to mid 60s. The day started with a clear sky and a beautiful sunrise. By 1200 hours, the sky clouded over and we motored along in mostly cloudy conditions although there were pockets of sunshine. The wind started light but built to 25 knots (gusts to 30) by the time we docked at the Port Royal Marina. In fact the Ladies Island Swing Bridge Captain told us that he would not open the bridge at 1530 unless the 27 knot wind dropped below 25 knots. Canvasback Too and SUNSHINE circled for about fifteen minutes waiting for further word from the bridge captain. Luckily, the wind speed dropped to 24 knots and the bridge opened on schedule.

Comment: Today’s ICW route took us on the Wadmalaw, North Edisto, Dawhoo, Ashepoo, Coosaw and Beaufort Rivers. The rivers are connected by cuts. Generally speaking, the cuts present the most serious navigational challenges since shoals are usually present. Fortunately we passed through the Fenwick, the Ashepoo-Coosaw and the other cuts without a problem.

The keel boat (Canvasback Too and Wind Lore) captains were concerned with the shallows near mark “112” on the Dawho River. This section of the waterway is notorious for groundings. Fortunately, we passed through at near high tide. We never saw depths below twelve feet.

Wind Lore out of Shelburne, NS, was relieved; they draw six feet. But, when they arrived at the fixed bridge a few miles away, they were concerned with the “air draft” or bridge clearance. The high tide that helped them easily negotiate the shallows mentioned above now meant that there was only a bit over 63 feet clearance at the bridge. They need 63 feet exactly and passed through very slowly with just a few inches to spare.

The combination of strong foul current and 20 knots of wind on our nose made for a very slow passage through the Coosaw River. Both SUNSHINE and Canvasback Too sloughed along at something between three and four miles per hour. We had the “pedal to the metal” in an effort to make the Lady’s Island Swing Bridge before 1600 hours. After that time, the bridge will not open during rush hour (4:oo PM – 6:00 PM).

Because the NOAA weather forecast is predicting 30 knots of wind with higher gusts, we decided to tie up in a marina. Ladies Island Marina was filled and had no space for us so we made reservations at the Downtown Marina in Beaufort. This wasn’t an ideal location because the marina is exposed to strong northwest wind. Even though we made reservations earlier in the day, we decided to pass on that marina. Captain Dave made reservations for both vessels at Port Royal Landing Marina. The crews of several boats we have previously met were already tied up. We’re looking forward to meeting and talking to some of them.

Captain Dave made dinner tonight. He borrowed the recipe from a restaurant in Wrightsville Beach. He made a base of mashed potatoes with a burger on top and this was topped with chili. Talk about comfort food! It was a great meal for this chilly night.

After dinner and gam, we bid good evening to Captain Dave as boater’s midnight was fast approaching. Anna Marie and I settled down to watch game five of the World Series. The Phillies are up 3 games to 1 over the Tampa Bay Rays. Go Phillies!

Arial view of Port Royal Landing Marina



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Charleston Beckons (Day 033)

Isle of Palms Marina, SC to Tom Point Anchorage, SC MM 495.7
Distance Traveled: 39.2 Hours Underway: 7.3 Average Speed: 5.4


Weather: Pleasant! Sunny, light wind (less than 10 knots)




Two views of the Charleston Waterfront


Comment: At 0745, the dock lines were hauled aboard and SUNSHINE and crew in the company of Canvasback Too and Captain Dave were underway. Our vessels negotiated the Ben Sawyer Swing Bridge (Isle of Palms) and the Wappoo Bascule Bridge (outside of Charlestown). The bridge captains were very polite and most professional. We have yet to encounter one who isn’t.

Elliott’s Cut, a narrow 0.2 mile cut from Charleston to the Stono River provide a 2.9 knot foul current t us

and Cygnet out of Boston, Mass., who passed through the Wappoo Bascule Bridge with us.

Canvasback Too and Cygnet entering Elliott's Cut



The crew of SUNSHINE motored down the Stono with heavy eyes. The Phillies, victorious in last night’s World Series game 3, ended somewhere near 0200 hours, after a rain delay of an hour and one-half. It was a tight game, but the Fightin’s pushed the winning run home in the bottom of the ninth for a 5 to 4 win over Tamp Bay.

Game 4 will be played tonight. Since we’re at anchor, we be listening rather than watching.

The anchor was down at 1500 hours. Captain Dave rafted to SUNSHINE, and we relaxed, planed tomorrow’s adventure and talked about places we’ll visit in the next few weeks.





Penquin has the anchor down in Tom Point


We took a few pictures of the Charleston waterfront, which is always attractive and very inviting. Charleston makes a great impression from the water. As we passed through, we had thoughts of abandoning our plans to take a slip in the city marina. Tempting as a stop might be, we decided to plug on to Tom Point, a very nice and secure anchorage off the Wadmalaw River.

As it happens, two other vessels joined us in the anchorage. The first is a large sailboat, Wind Lore, hailing from Canada and the trawler Penguine, whom we met at the North Carolina Great Dismal Swamp Visitor’s Center. We were able to get the last quarter of the Eagles victory over the Atlanta Falcons which turns out to be a warm up event for game four of the World Series.

Arial view of Tom Point Anchorage


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